JULY___________________________________________________________ _2005

Friday, July 1st

<Araksi> We left for Formentera around noon, had a pleasant sail, and dropped anchor in one of the beautiful bays on the west coast of the island (038° 45'N; 001° 25,8'E). Alike the other Balearic islands, Formentera has its own characteristic scenery: it is flat with sandy beaches which are washed with translucent, turquoise waters. This was a paradise for the children and Ruud: the children headed to the golden beach and my husband to the small islets for snorkeling where he speared a dorade.

Saturday, July 2nd

<Araksi> We plan to start our crossing to the mainland Spain this afternoon. In the morning we landed our dinghy on the golden beach crewed by the kids, my mother, sister and myself, while Ruud was snorkeling around the small islets close to our anchorage. The first guests were already being transported by various motor boats to these fine beaches, and within half an hour the place was crowded. Nevertheless we still had fun. We set sail around 13:00 heading to Cartagena, some 120 miles away.

Sunday, July 3rd

<Araksi> We sailed two third of the passage, and motorsailed the rest. Towards the morning we crossed the 0° longitudinal meridian; a pleasant reminder to me that we are steadily getting closer to our goal of finally getting out of the Med. Arriving at the mainland we first approached Cartagena harbor but then decided to sail further westwards. Close to Cartagena, in the bay of Mazarron we were caught in a fisher net; it was quite a fight to get rid of it, Ruud had to cut a steel cable under water. In settled weather we finally anchored in a bay called Cabezo del Castellar (037° 33,4'N; 001° 17,3W) on the Spanish cost of Costa Blanca.

Monday, July 4th

<Araksi> Today was another long sailing day that brought us another 60 miles further West. We anchored in Playa de Carboneras (037° 00,2'N; 001° 53'W). On our way we did experience some spectacular views; the coast here is rough with high ranging mountains and sandy beaches, but unfortunately some ugly high rising tourist resorts as well.

Tuesday, July 5th

<Araksi> We left early in the morning, had a nice sail and arrived in Almeria (036° 49,7'N; 002° 27,6'W) around 14:00. At our arrival we were guided by the port authorities to a berth along the east quai, just below the control tower. Our priority here is to find a travel agency where we can change my mother's plane ticket; her departure is from Sevilla in three days and we will certainly not make it to Cadiz until then. Tourist offices are my major information source, and here they told us that we had to go to the airport to find an Iberia office for changing the ticket. We also were told where to find the bus to the airport, an internet center, supermarkets, and the obligatory market hall. But first, my mother, sister and I marched directly to the bus station, had a twenty minute ride to the airport, found the Iberia office, had the ticket changed to Malaga within five minutes, and were back again in the city, all in less than an hour.

Almeria is a very pleasant town with wide avenues bordered with nicely trimmed trees and narrow side streets with very picturesque corners harboring cozy restaurants under some elegant plantains. In the evening we all had some delicious tapas in one of these pleasant plazas.

Until now, we have a very positive impression of Spain and Spanish people.

Wednesday, July 6th

<Araksi> This morning Ruud, my sister and I went to the market hall to buy fresh vegetables and fruits, and as in many Spanish cities we found here as well a rich variety.

Before leaving this pleasant town we visited the Alcazaba, a fortification throning above the city, which was built by the Moors in 955. We all enjoyed it a lot, and were surprised about the good renovation work done.

We left around 13:00, motored almost the entire 21 miles to Almerimar (036° 41,9'N; 002° 48'W).

Thursday, July 7th

<Araksi> We covered 63 miles today, mostly motoring. At our approach to Velez-Malaga we observed dolphins rushing along without playing around the boat as they usually do. A couple of miles further in the bay we found the reason of their disinterest in us: a bay full of fish splashing around. Once anchored there Ruud had to join the chase as well; accompanied by Levon and Luysali and armed with two fishing lines he immediately launched the dinghy, and they were gone. It was late after the sunset when they were back with one dolphin fish and four mackerels. Look at them winners!

Friday, July 8th

<Araksi> We left early in the morning with the usual fishing lines trolling behind Garabes. We were hardly out of the bay when a big mackerel caught a lure, and two more followed suite. Ruud used here the so called spoon lures, small silver leaf-like ones. Around noon we arrived in Malaga, entered the harbor and while we were doing our mooring maneuvers an employee from the port authorities came telling us that without some licence which would allow us to enter a commercial harbor we would have to pay a high fee. The harbor is huge but doesn't have any marinas, and besides that the airport lies further to the west of the city. We decided to find a marina where we could be closer to the airport, for my mother's flight leaves early in the morning. Such a marina is Benalmedina (036° 35,5'N; 004° 30,9'W), unfortunately we couldn't find a berth there. We anchored close to the entrance, but were not happy with our situation; the anchorage was very rolly and we would have difficulties to bring my mother to the airport early in the morning. So we went to the harbor master to find a solution, and he had one; he proposed us to come and moor along the fuel station late in the night.

Saturday, July 9th

<Araksi> We entered the port around 02:00 early in the morning and moored along the fuel station as we were told. The guard on watch was not very happy with our coming, but we convinced him that we would leave early in the morning before the station was opened. The taxi we had ordered was point 04:00 along the quai. We said farewell to my mother after a month of pleasant sailing together.

It was 07:30 when we left the harbor, half an hour before the fuel station opens. I could see the relief on the face of the night watch.

We set course to Gibraltar. After some 54 miles westwards we were at the portal to the Atlantic, finally. We spotted the mighty rock of Gibraltar already miles away. The vast bay is impressive, especially the huge tankers anchored there give it a martial impression. We anchored close to the airport - the two marinas didn't have any room for Garabes. Shepperds marina doesn't exist anymore; some huge construction is going on there.

Our journey from the Balearic Islands to the portal of the Atlantic was long and adventurous for all of us. On some long sailing days the children were a little dizzy but all in all they were eager crew members.

Sunday, July 10th

<Araksi> After a mighty breakfast we all abandoned Garabes for site-seeing the Rock. The town is not the most interesting place to visit. We were expecting to find here a rich marine supply, but were disappointed.

We took the cable car to the 412 meters high rock of Gibraltar. The view was impressive, and the monkeys were intrusive; they attacked our youngest crew member, Luysali, apparently liking her cap.

The weather is quite uncomfortable, force 8 is forecasted in the region. The holding is good though, so we do not worry about dragging.

Monday, July 11th

<Araksi> We have some shopping to do here in Gibraltar. First on the list is to visit a chandler for purchasing a pilot book for the Atlantic islands; our point of interest are Madeira, the Canaries and the Capverdian islands. We like the book we found (Anne Hammick: Atlantic Islands, Imray Laurie Norie & Wilson Ltd., 4th ed., 2004). Additional to many updated information it also gives a lot of internet references. Then the five of us split into two groups; the boys, i.e. Ruud and Levon, went to the store Ruud had spotted yesterday which sells fishing gear. The girls, i.e. my sister, Luysali and myself headed to the shopping mile of the town; Luysali needs a pair of sandals and we all need food to eat. The food part was easy but sandals..., well we decided to go after those in the next bigger Spanish town. We all met again at the main square, which is a gray, not very appealing huge place full of cafés. While we were sipping on our drinks in one of those cafés Ruud announced with a smile in his face that he really liked one of the fishing gear in the store. I knew that its purchase was inevitable; he was dreaming to buy a bigger and more advanced gear since Alghero.

Ruud had his new toy in the afternoon. I must confess that it really is a much more powerful gear than the one he has.

<Ruud> Yes, yes, I sinned. I should not have bought such a beautiful toy, but then again: men are boys and boys need toys, it is that simple. To make the decision even more simpler, the shop owner In Gibraltar made me a fantastic price: some 200 euros lower than the best offer I got in Alghero which I already thought to be great. So now we are the proud owners of a Shimano Tiagra 50W, a two gear wonder machine from Japan together with a fine carbon rod. To make me even more happy I was given some fine hooks and rings too and when talking with other fishermen - the shop appeared to be a major centre of big sport fishing where all kind of people pass by to buy their stuff - a friendly old gentleman told me he had bought the same set recently and that he caught a 100 kilo tuna with it three days ago. Oops!

Tuesday, July 12th

<Araksi> At 08:00 we were at the fuel station; we topped our almost full tanks (GBP 0.49 or EUR 0.60 per liter), and were ready for the strait. At our start we had hardly wind to sail but an hour later it steadily increased, culminating into a force 6 while we were still in the strait. Thankfully the wind blew from the east. We had the tide with us by just 0.8kts. At 12:14 we were passing the narrowest point close to Tarifa while the huge waves were pushing us into the Atlantic. We arrived in Cadiz at 21:15 after a sail of 75 miles, and dropped anchor in the huge bay (036° 32,6N'; 006° 15,16'W).

Today we did not only have our first experience of the Atlantic but also our first fish from this ocean. It was also the first fish Ruud caught with his new gear, a big sea bass of some three kilos.

Wednesday, July 13th

<Araksi> In the morning after breakfast we moved to the northeast corner of the bay, close to Porto Sherry along the entrance of Rio Guadalete (036° 34,7'N; 006° 14,8'W). This is a pleasant bay with a fine sandy beach, it is only open to the southwest. The holding is good. There is a huge tourist resort development going on here, thankfully it seems that they are not going to do the same mistakes of building huge hotel blocks along the coast as in many other parts of Spain; the pine woods along the beach is being kept and its scent swept to the cruiser over the water is simply overwhelming.

The afternoon was beach time.

Thursday, July 14th

<Araksi> Site-seeing Cadiz is on the plan today. But first one has to get there; the bay we are in is around 20 km away. It is difficult to find means of transportation out here; one has to take the taxi to the next town, Santa Maria, which is some ten minutes away. A person we approached for some information was on his way to that charming town, so he proposed to give us a lift to plaza torreadores, from where we took the bus to Cadiz. As the name of this place suggests - and the huge arena at its center makes obvious - bull fights are still popular in this part of Spain.

Cadiz is a very pleasant city. It was built by the Phoenicians and occupied by the Romans and Moors; it is one of the oldest cities of Spain. We enjoyed the narrow streets with its colorful ornaments and inviting tapas bars almost in every corner; the huge old magnolia trees in some beautiful squares; the parks along the costal fortification.

We found here the sandals we were looking in Gibraltar for our youngest crew member. Even I bought a pair of slippers; how couldn't I, with such amazing discounts.

At the end of this pleasant day, at our return on Garabes, we had to find out that she was boarded by some intruders, who had stolen the dinghy's oars, two pairs of flippers and a mask. We suspect them to be some youngsters who paddle around here in their inflatable canoes.

Friday, July 15th

<Araksi> We want to make a favor to the children by spending the day here, as they behaved very seamanlike during the long journey from the Balearic islands. They enjoy the beach greatly. But first we have to supply camping gas for cooking; luckily that was a much easier task than we thought it would be; we just had to cross the road behind the beach, and the store in the huge camping had them on stock.

We will leave late in the evening for the 75 miles trip to our next stop at Rio Guadiana, the frontier river between Spain and Portugal. My sister and the kids leave in five days from Faro in Portugal.

During this month with my sister and the kids we sailed almost every day. The legs we did were usually of 40 miles. We often had a swim in the morning, and after having a lengthy breakfast we set sail for our next destination. During the day Ruud and I were mostly busy with the sailing while the children were either playing or doing some home work, but also every now and then helping us handling the sails or the ropes. On our arrival we all took a good swim, and then had a relaxing dinner. Ruud sometimes played games with the kids, usually monopoly, and my sister always read to the children before they went to bed.

Saturday, July 16th

<Araksi> We left the bay of Cadiz around 20:00 yesterday evening. Our night sail was fast with the wind on our starboard quarter, and we made good progress for the half of our journey. Then the wind shifted; it got stronger and it blew exactly on our nose. The rest of the journey thus was beating. Each time I am amazed how well Garabes can sail close to the wind; with 15 to 17 kts of wind we set the autopilot on wind steering with an angle of 30°, and by manual steering we even got as close as 25°. This slows her a little which gives us a smoother ride, but we still sailed with a speed of 7 knots.

By the time we reached Rio Guadiana the wind had picked up to 20 kts. Anchoring, an issue? Normally not, but here with the wind and the very strong current in adverse directions the boat behaved very strangely, at least in my opinion never having experienced such conditions. The anchor dug in well but Garabes was still not swinging into the wind. This is worth saying it again: The 22 kts of wind weren't able to drag the nose of Garabes with her light weight, low keel and high sides into the wind. You should have seen the strange directions the anchor chain was taking! While I was sitting there totally astauned, I saw some strange things moving in a completely different direction than I would have expected. At a second glance I noticed the creatures, they were gigantic jellyfish. That was it, the verdict was passed upon; and it wasn't quit a possitive one. How different is the perception of people; this river was recommended to us by good friends as a very pleasant place. And maybe it is under different circumstances...

Sunday, July 17th

<Araksi> We left in the morning this some how strange place. Our destination is Faro; this will be our last stop with my sister and the kids. They leave on the 20th, and we expect to find there a protected bay with beautiful beaches for some nice swimming on the last days of their vacation.

We sailed 35 miles with good winds and arrived in Olhao (036° 59,9'N; 007° 50,5'W) in the late afternoon. The huge lighthouse is visible from quite a distance while the smaller light structures (port and starboard) at the entrance of the canal are still in the haze. The entrance is straightforward with good depths, leading into a huge sheltered lagoon-like area surrounded by islets. Our anchorage is protected from the sea by the island of Culatra, a long, flat island with marvelous sandy beaches on the sea side, and with a small fishing village on the inner side.

Monday, July 18th

<Araksi> We need to have a fine breakfast today to celebrate this tranquil anchorage; finally an embracing spot without nasty swells and strange currents. My sister and I headed to the village equipped with curiosity, for we are always quite excited to discover what kind of delights the locals produce. We found freshly baked rolls and some kind of pastry, and bought the local cheese. Simply delicious!

We all went swimming in the Atlantic. What a marvelous beach, what a refreshing sea! And this almost deserted place with the unlimited turquoise waters is a rare view in crowded Europe.

Tuesday, July 19th

<Araksi> Today is the last day of my sister and her kids on Garabes. Without even having breakfast we, the two women, dinghied to Olhao on the mainland for finding out how to get to the airport on the next day. The ride is a quite long one, almost three miles. Once there, we immediately spotted the two huge market halls; one for vegetables and fruits, and the other for fish, lots of fish.

Next we we found the tourist office, and got lots of information. In there they even ordered the taxi for tomorrow morning. In the afternoon we spent many hours on the marvelous beach; swam, played games, and enjoyed the nature.In the evening we had for our last dinner spaghetti bolognese; it was a promise to the kids, their most favorite dish.

Wednesday, July 20th

<Araksi> We were all up at 06:00. Half an hour later we were dighying to Olhao. At 07:15 I said farewell to my sister and the kids...

Thursday, July 21st

<Araksi> Ruud and I were in Olhao this morning. We first investigated about the marina. It is small and seems to be full all the time. We bought a Portuguese phone card with the number +351 968524363. For internet there is a state run center. With a personal card, which is issued on your first visit there, one can surf for free.

When we got back to our dinghy the scenery out there was entirely changed; the islets we had to navigate around on our way to the town had disappeared completely. We could speed to Garabes in a straight line over what now had become a huge lake. There is usually a tidal difference of two meters, but today - having full moon - it's spring tide which makes the scenery even more impressive. I am amazed to experience this rhythmic coming and going of the sea. It is like an eternal clock.

Friday, July 22nd

<Ruud> The wind has picked up, and it now reaches 25 kts. Still, we are very safe in this area with the anchor dug in perfectly. We see many yachts coming in from different places to hide here as well, I suppose. Well there is enough to do on board as I grossly neglected maintenance work during the family visit. Impossibly to do anything with many people aboard, I swear Your Honor!

While working outside, I noticed a large swarm of mullets misusing Garabes as a platform to hide under. Sorry guys, but there is rent to pay, so I speared one of the biggies (some 50 cm) for a delicious meal tomorrow. The other ones - ungratefully - disappeared quickly. Meanwhile, Araksi succeeded in updating our homepage completely, another task that had to be put aside.

Saturday - Tuesday, July 23rd - 26th

<Araksi> Mostly we were on the boat working, reading, writing and in between having our meals, watching the tide coming and going and with it the birds. As soon as the land masses were visible, hundreds of these gracious flying creatures settled on the sand banks. I identified some of them as storks, flamingos, herons, cormorants and many kinds of seagulls, big and small. In between, fishermen were harvesting the sea by collecting shells and crabs.

In the last two days the wind was quite strong, and after observing some dangerous manoeuvers and three boats dragging we didn't want to leave Garabes on her own. Our original plan was to go to the town, visit the internet center and find out about car rental facilities; we would like to discover the inland before leaving the Algarve.

Wednesday, July 27th

<Araksi> The strong winds ceased since yesterday, instead we have lots of rain clouds today. Nevertheless we decided to make the long journey to town; we finally want to update our home page and do some shopping. On Culatra, in the small fishing village, there is a small store for basic supplies, but for serious shopping and internet one has to go to Olhao. The distance between the main land and the anchorage is interrupted by small islets which disappear with the flood and appear again at low tide. The way to the town therefore is not a straight line but a winding channel through the islands which makes it an half hour trip by dinghy. We can only shortcut it when the tide is high, as it was this morning. Once in town we almost spent an hour at the internet center. It was poring when we got out in the streets, even our raincoats didn't help a lot. After the shopping we climbed in our dinghy and motored along the winding channel back to Garabes, for it was again the time of land. While it was still raining, and the sand banks were hardly visible behind the mist, our journey had a touch of adventure.

When we arrived on board the rain stopped. What else did you expect! We had a late lunch. In the evening we decided to leave tomorrow this pleasant place, so we wanted to say farewell to the small village on Culatra by having a beer in the simple café on the beach close to the church.

Thursday, July 28th

<Araksi> We left around 09:30 this lovely place. Our 37 miles journey to Portimao was a mix of pleasant sailing, motoring and motorsailing. We arrived in the large harbour around 17:00. The anchorage, on the starboard side just after the entrance, is huge and the holding is good in mud.

Friday, July 29th

<Araksi> There are two marinas here. Marina Portimao is the bigger one with all sorts of facilities, and the price tag is accordingly. The second marina (IPTM) is located deeper in the huge port. Berths are rare in here, and if you find one you are allowed to stay for two days only.

The fuel quai at the Marina Portimao seems to be the place to tie up the dinghies. From there it is a 15 minutes walk to town.

Saturday and Sunday, July 30th and 31st

<Araksi> We visited town, where we found a suitable car rental agency (just along the huge parking space oposite the tourist information service). There are a couple of internet possibilities. At the public library one has free access but is limited for half an hour. Another pleasant place to access internet is in one of the cafés along the water close to the marina (IPTM).